Dykhtau

Dykhtau

Central Caucasus

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Dykhtau, 5198m.
One of the great Caucasian Peaks, facing the magnificent Bezingi Wall across the Bezingi Glacier. The first ascent in 1888 by Mummery and Zarfluh was a major achievement at the time. Their route up the SW Ridge graded 4b is no longer used as the normal route which is now the North Ridge, 4B, described below.

Starting from Misses Kosh the ridge is gained by first crossing the West Ridge of Misses-Tau then continuing to the Russian Bivouac located by a hanging glacier descending from the North Ridge of Dykhtau, 4 hours from Misses-Kosh. Now a notch between Misses-Tau and Dykhtau is gained a the North Ridge is followed to the summit. Allow 2 days from the Russian Bivouac, there are several good bivouac sites on the North Ridge.

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